Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
